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  #11  
Old Sun 20th November 2016, 12:11 PM
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Looking good with it's big sister in the background:



Since I had the RS out for a wash, Basil swapped boots and now looks like this:



He also copped an under bonnet wash to finish off the engine bay work.

Meeting extended family:



Better pics with the 17s fitted. I'm hoping these are not too large for RWC - they're only 1 inch larger in rim diametre so should be fine:



And another pic just because:



I think these rims look better on the Gen3 than they do on the RS...

Now to sort out the seat belt. Anyone got a rear right hand seat belt available?

Cheers

​Bennie
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Old Tue 6th December 2016, 05:17 PM
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Seatbelt sorted, so I had to have a go at that rear panel so they couldn't knock us for rust.

After a bit of work that looked like this:





It ended up looking like this:





And this is how it used to look:



Last week it got some rust killing acid treatment. I went to paint it last weekend but wasn't happy so did another treatment, only then to have the weather turn on me so I couldn't finish the job off.

Now wire wheel and paint is this week's task before RWC, hopefully Thursday

Cheers

Bennie
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Old Thu 29th December 2016, 03:40 PM
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After more work recently - acid treatment, wire wheeling, sealing and "top coat" of paint it looks more like this and is much more presentable.

Please excuse the dodgy iphone pics, I should've used the big camera.









I'm hoping for a RWC inspection next week with UEL mods in there somewhere too. It'll be a balancing act...

A few other minor things need to be done before this, just little bolts and clips on the rear bar.

Cheers

Bennie
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Old Thu 29th December 2016, 05:27 PM
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That looks alot better than it was, you wouldn't even see it from a distance unless someone pointed it out You could have even put a lick of body filler on there to smooth it out a bit more.
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  #15  
Old Thu 29th December 2016, 09:30 PM
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That was the plan. Body filler goes a bit beyond my patience range atm. My Sister is more than happy with it so I'm not taking it any further unless she one day gets it resprayed. And I doubt that'll happen.

Cheers

Bennie
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Old Thu 29th December 2016, 09:47 PM
Suby Spanner Suby Spanner is offline
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Nice work El Freddo, I'm a fan of that series of liberty. The damn b4's are still expensive though.

As for the HG's leaking oil, I had a forester through last week, owner thought rocker cover, cleaned it off, let it idle for 10 minutes, nope clearly head gasket.

Not the first suby I've seen do it. But to be fair I'm no fan of multilayer steel gaskets, ALL manufacturers have trouble with coolant and oil leaks from them.
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Old Fri 30th December 2016, 06:35 PM
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Yeah a good B4 will hold it's value for some time to come. But you can pick up one relatively cheap if it's got a bung engine or an issue with the twin turbo system.

Today I rang my exhaust mate to organise a time to do the UEL extractors. He was happy to do it today and after some talk he almost talked me out of it. We had a go anyway and the end result is a sublte subi beat - I enjoyed driving it home!

Now it sounds like a real subi and is ready for RWC next week. I wanted to get this work done after RWC and rego but with a house move going on at the same time that my sister would like to be taking her car to its actual home I wouldn't be able to do it

I'm sure there's a better note with adjustment of the unequal lengths, but I'm happy and will be keen to see if sister will notice the change (she's heard it running and had a short driveway length drive)...

Cheers

Bennie
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Last edited by El_Freddo; Sun 1st January 2017 at 05:54 PM. Reason: Autocorrect fixes. Bloody autocorrect!
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Old Mon 2nd January 2017, 12:16 PM
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Pics:



As you can see - this is in the development stage. We used the passenger's side of the original manifold, cut off the driver's side flange and reversed it. If I did this again I'd take an inch out of the two pipes that come out of the flange before welding the flange back on in reverse. The reverse fitment is needed so the exhaust outlet of this flange is now facing forward for the loop to pass around the front of the engine.

A new collector was also made rather than welding the old one back on facing the other way (which can be done to save on new materials)

This is it all welded up ready for it's install:



No pic of it installed, I got very excited once it was fitted and forgot the pic - I just wanted to hear it! The mods fitted very well without needing to fight anything to make it fit.

No sound file or video - I might get around to one (looks like I need a new computer ), plus it's got a "rally car" rasp noise when you stab the throttle. I'm not a fan of that, but I think this is the rear lukey muffler.

Anyway I'm happy with the result and I've enjoyed the short cruise I've had in it so far. The big test will be cruising at speed to see what the noise factor is.



Huge thanks to Vin for his time, effort, conversation and personal stories. That's the other bit I love about hanging out in his shed.

Cheers

Bennie
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  #19  
Old Fri 20th January 2017, 12:16 AM
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So this went in for a RWC in Shepp as I thought it was ready and I was confident I wouldn't be doing major work on it while moving house at the same time.

Wrong. It came back with:
- cracked fan belts - replace with new
- low front brake pads and discs require machining
- new windscreen wiper blades needed
- adjust hand brake
- needs "proper taper" wheel nuts and spigot hub adaptors for the rims
- needs new rear muffler due to rust hole (no hole present)
- wiper washer jet needs adjustment
- upper and lower control arm bushes on rear suspension needs replacing (%#!!!)

This list also came with a quite for each bit of work required - I really felt like I was being taken for a numpty that knows nothing about cars. The front pads had 4mm of meat on them and the discs looked relatively new (and slotted as well), the hand brake worked fine, the rear suspension looked good on the hoist when we did the UEL extractors...

I had 7 days to return the vehicle for its second inspection otherwise I pay for a whole new inspection. Yeah that didn't happen and I didn't believe half that work was needed. So with the house move we took it to m&d's (Mrs El_Freddo gave it her seal of approval) and sorted a RWC with the mob my brother recently went through. It cost a bit more but this was due to labour on an exhaust leak (not sure if it was in the UEL extractor mods or somewhere else) and a new set of wiper blades. And it's done - passed!!

Now Basil is booked in for his registration later today. I believe my sister will pick him up tomorrow. I'm a bit annoyed I won't be there to see this or go for my sister's first cruise in Basil to see what she really thinks about this Subaru. I'm sure I'll hear about it though!

It just goes to show you need to shop around for the best place for a RWC that suits your needs/or one you have a good relationship with already, I didn't go with the mob I used with Redback's RWC simply due to distance from home. Lesson learnt!

Cheers

Bennie
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Old Fri 20th January 2017, 10:55 PM
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Hi Bennie,


Just my 2c worth (which of course rounds to $0 nowadays ) on the 2 issues I think are the most important, even though I know you've gotten the roadworthy elsewhere:

Especially as it is your sister's vehicle.

I don't know a lot about this area but I have just been through fitting some alloys to another vehicle so I do know something. Luckily it was MX-5 wheels to a 323, commonality is big amongst Mazda parts so they matched almost exactly.

Wheel nuts
If the wheel nuts don't have the correct mating faces then the forces will be concentrated into the incorrect places and probably into touch points (or at least circles). Will cause extreme stress at the touch points and perhaps warp or crack the alloys. Think of it like the pressure points from stilettos. And/or the nuts could come loose. Correct nuts should have come with (or been with) the wheels. Look online but I'd suggest stick to steel ones. SCA seem to have a selection on their website.

Spigot hub adaptors
Might also be known as hub spacer rings, spigot rings, hub adaptor rings. The hub is designed to take/transfer the weight loads to/from the wheel. If the wheel centre bore diameter is different (larger) to the hub's centre bore diameter then the weight loads are transferred either through friction from the mating faces or through shear (lateral, transverse, sideways) forces on the wheel bolts themselves. Bolts are not at their strongest with sidewards forces (ever bent a bolt sidewards? Bet you have) and are not designed to take those type of loads. Look online for 'em.

Now combine the two...apart from the stresses on the mating points, you could theoretically end up with bent studs and a wheel no longer on the same rotational axis as the hub...just like the off-centre wheels on a circus clown's car!
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