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Restorations and build ups. We will test this and see how it goes. A personal forum for members with major builds going on. This way we can keep all the posts together. If you have a major build going on let me know and I will set you up with your own area. If you have threads already running also let me know and I will then move them to your area. See the two I have added to get an idea of what I mean.

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  #71  
Old Thu 15th October 2015, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Freddo View Post
After thought: will you have a slave server to unlock the rear tailgate? Very worth while!

Cheers

Bennie
Would love to, but sadly I've discovered it's impossible! Because of the design of the lock and how the opening mechanism works. There's no push rod or anything to attach a servo to
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  #72  
Old Thu 15th October 2015, 12:10 PM
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You only want to unlock the tailgate, not open it every time you unlock the car.

I'm sure you can hook it into the locking arm to unlock/lock it as required

I'll have a look at an MY tailgate next time I'm among my parts bombs

Cheers

Bennie
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  #73  
Old Thu 15th October 2015, 06:50 PM
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I'm probably not explaining it very well, but there's no locking arm or anything coming out from the key barrel on the inside Nothing for the actuator to push/pull on. You'll see it if you have a look. Would be cool to have an auto boot open


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Originally Posted by steptoe View Post
that plasti dip style spray on is not robust at all on our interior plastics, maybe the originals or the ones they demo on youtube as being pressure washer safe ...not the can i did my stuff with, and once it starts to peel looks bad
Oh really Were you using the genuine American made stuff? Performix I think is the "brand"
That's bad news then. But maybe I won't need it after all; as an update on the VHT dye on the plastics, the parts I sprayed have been hanging in the shed for days, and today was quite warm. Looks like it takes a while to achieve a full cure. The same piece I could scratch the stuff off 2 days ago, can't scratch it off anymore I would even say it is quite robust now. And it would be so easy to touch up if it does get scratched. Looks like the key is a week hanging in a warm shed to season the stuff properly
The soft vinyl parts were not an issue, they look absolutely stunning for 35 year old visors, could have been made yesterday.
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  #74  
Old Fri 16th October 2015, 03:53 AM
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Top work Mr Silver bullet ...

You'll need a 'Cable Actuator' ( solenoid ) for the rear - Pull only, as the spring inside the mechanism will self return.

A 'Boot / Trunk release kit' is what you want ...



Sorry I don't have any photos of it in mine, but will see what I can find ...

Ciao, Bantum ...

Last edited by Bantum; Fri 16th October 2015 at 04:07 AM.
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  #75  
Old Sat 24th October 2015, 09:48 PM
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Progress on the wagon has slowed this week...I got a new job So it's back to only weekends were progress can be made.

Today I installed the last locking actuator in the front passenger door, finished off the sound deadening in the doors. Also this week some headlights arrived in the mail (replaceable bulb type) but their quality is dubious in terms of reflector shape and beam pattern. Not sure if they will actually make a proper beam shape or if the reflector was made to "that looks about right" chinese standards.

This isn't really interior related but it is electrical related I put the front lights and combi lights/indicators together to wire up the plugs for them and do a test. I didn't quite make it to test stage today, so demo will be tomorrow With some more LEDs that arrived this week as well I now have full LED indicators and parkers, even the T10 little wedge bulbs on the side indicators. Also the security system/immobilizer is all wired up, tested and working! I even connected a battery up to the car to test everything, no problems so far.

So the car looks a bit more like a car today. Still can't decide what I'm going to do about front struts annoyingly, so I can't put the front wheels back together. I think the L series strut idea is out the window because they are so much longer than std, my lift blocks make the front too high. I'm currently deciding if I could chop up my original showa rebuildable struts and add 50mm of tube, use a longer strut insert and a custom spring to do away with the lift block altogether and keep original top mounts. Haven't found a strut insert that would be suitable though.

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-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
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Last edited by Silverbullet; Sat 24th October 2015 at 09:53 PM.
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  #76  
Old Sun 25th October 2015, 07:05 AM
steptoe steptoe is offline
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lookin' better all the time Sam. Can you fight MY front coils into the L struts to make a difference to the height ? Really need an engine in and let it settle to see the working height
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  #77  
Old Sun 25th October 2015, 12:18 PM
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Thought about it Jonno, but I think the extra height is in the L top mount ball bearing arrangement. Engine weight would be a help...but I can't install the engine in our tight quarters without the car being mobile I've got some nice spring compressors on the way so I can play with struts properly.

Anyway, test time! Hooked up a battery to see what would happen. First try had the RH headlight on constantly Almost completely freaked out at what it could be but it was simple enough; I'd put the main beam power wire into the wrong spot in the plug at the fuse box...phew! All good now. Everything is working perfectly now happily.

Shaky cam warning
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  #78  
Old Wed 28th October 2015, 09:09 PM
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Are 2wd L series sedan front struts lower than their 4wd counterparts? That could be an option if they are.

Otherwise it's good work mate, keep it up!

Cheers

Bennie
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  #79  
Old Sun 10th January 2016, 07:23 PM
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Having worked on the engine bay a bit more and wiring in my new EDIS system has prompted me to do a bit more wiring on the inside too...started attaching the plugs needed for the 6 gauge cluster, hope my self-made pin out diagrams are all accurate! I know I labelled all my wires right, just have to attach them to the corresponding pins in the 2 big round plugs, plus 3 x square plugs up the other end. I need to add a few more important wires, but at least now when I crank the engine for the first time I will be able to see my oil pressure, and tell the security system the car is alive. Annoyingly I couldn't find any crimp terminals like the stock ones to re-pin those round plugs, so I am forced to solder to the aged and brittle wires already in the plugs. Not a good sign when the wire stripper is breaking the copper strands so easily

Nice relaxing bit of wiring on a Sunday evening
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  #80  
Old Sun 10th January 2016, 11:23 PM
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Cool Wired ...

Been there ... ( I should post up some of my earlier stuff ) Seriously good work though ...

P.S. - While you're there, don't forget to fix the indicator return strike ...


You gonna come over & do mine when your finished ?


Cheers, Bantum ....

Last edited by Bantum; Sun 10th January 2016 at 11:42 PM. Reason: Corrections ...
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