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Restorations and build ups. We will test this and see how it goes. A personal forum for members with major builds going on. This way we can keep all the posts together. If you have a major build going on let me know and I will set you up with your own area. If you have threads already running also let me know and I will then move them to your area. See the two I have added to get an idea of what I mean.

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  #21  
Old Sun 30th August 2015, 08:35 AM
steptoe steptoe is offline
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cannot imagine the cost to manufacturers to make small changes for differing markets back in the day. I guess making the same thing for seven or eight years probably paid off in the end. keep up the good work - itching to see you finish this and show us how good that twin port is !
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  #22  
Old Sun 30th August 2015, 09:35 AM
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Green_eyed_liberty Green_eyed_liberty is offline
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what i did with my sports cluster is sit down with pencil and paper back trace each number,
(most of the wires are in the factory brumby loom, same colours and all, mostly needed to add illumination as its required a few times in the sports cluster)


* pin 1, illumination red/green
* pin 2, illumination red
* pin 3, park brake light blue


etc etc, you follow each pin circuit to its destination (remove the bulb and shine a light to see)

the clock was just illumination, earth and constant power
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  #23  
Old Sun 30th August 2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green_eyed_liberty View Post
what i did with my sports cluster is sit down with pencil and paper back trace each number,
(most of the wires are in the factory brumby loom, same colours and all, mostly needed to add illumination as its required a few times in the sports cluster)


* pin 1, illumination red/green
* pin 2, illumination red
* pin 3, park brake light blue


etc etc, you follow each pin circuit to its destination (remove the bulb and shine a light to see)

the clock was just illumination, earth and constant power
Not all doom and gloom eh I was really worried this would be a major PITA but I'm in the process of tracing every pin back to its bulb or instrument and it's not that hard after all. Making my own version of the FSM wiring diagram. And the 3 wired plugs; the PCB their attached to is held in with 2 screws, with 6 bulbs and some diodes on the other side! Follow each track on the PCB to its wire, follow the wire to the plug and bingo! That's all the door ajar warning lights, choke etc. Interestingly there is a hazard light in there as well (triangle inside a triangle) for when you put the hazards on, with no bulb installed from factory! Was this only an option for some countries?
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  #24  
Old Sun 30th August 2015, 01:13 PM
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Nice work. Can't wait to see the finished product!
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  #25  
Old Sun 30th August 2015, 04:34 PM
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Just finished the updated schematic for my 6 gauge instrument cluster. And yes, it was completely different to the FSM and the FSM even had a few typos which added to my confusion. So I've drawn up a new clean copy and added it to the downloads section as .pdf in case anyone wanted to have a look/make use of it.

http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/downlo...do=file&id=148
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  #26  
Old Thu 3rd September 2015, 09:16 PM
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Intermittent wipers w/relays

Just working out and adding the last circuits to my diagram, one of them being the wipers, 2 speed with self park AND intermittent. Since I'm re-wiring from scratch I'm not going to use the stock intermittent relay, since I have NFI what the 6 pins on it do and they are not labelled. Intermittent timer circuits are easy to come by if not build one myself to send out a pulse of power for say half a second every 5 seconds. So this is what I've come up with, can anyone see any problems? (DOUG! need your seal of approval! )



Hope the lines are visible enough. I've put the wiper switch right next to the motor just for that image to show what wires do what in relation to switch positions. Red on the switch and motor are ACC power (separate feeds of course) with all the outputs from the switch going to signal the relays which will actually deliver the power to the motor. When the motor has turned past a certain point the self-park cam comes into action and delivers power from the red to the green on the motor, which then goes back to the switch. When the switch is in the OFF position (or INT for that matter) the green is joined to the yellow, sending power to the low speed winding in the motor UNTIL the wipers get to the home position, self park cam cuts power to the green therefore cutting power to the low speed winding, stopping the motor in home position...clear as mud?

The tricky bit is the intermittent switch position. You'll see I have the signal for the "low speed" relay going through a normally closed relay, so in any switch position other than INT the signal for the low speed relay will be un-interrupted. With the switch in the INT position however, power is sent to the timer circuit, which pulses a signal every 5 seconds to signal 2 relays. When this happens, the normally open relay closes sending power to the low speed winding (wiping the window once every 5 seconds) at the same time the normally closed relay opens cutting the signal to the "low speed" relay. This is so that the low speed winding only gets power from one relay at a time (which it should anyway, the normally closed relay is sort of a safety) Since the pulse will only be .5 seconds, the aforementioned self-park cam should still park the wipers at home position because the green and yellow are still joined with the switch in the INT position.

I think this should work, but I'm not sure if there would be point when the .5 second pulse stops that the wipers would stop for a split second in the middle of the window (DOUG! )

If anyone kept track of all that my hat is off to you And while I'm here, does anyone know what the "Air conditioner switch N.O" component in the FSM diagram below refers to? If you can see it, middle-left of the page with 6 wires going to it. This can't be the A/C switch in the dash, since that only has 4 wires. Is there another switch somewhere in an MY A/C system? The A/C is pretty much the last circuit I have to draw in, probably the most complicated too.

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Last edited by Silverbullet; Thu 3rd September 2015 at 09:20 PM.
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  #27  
Old Thu 3rd September 2015, 11:07 PM
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Thumbs up Kewl Running ...

Damn your good, I think you have got the hang of it quite nicely - I'm going to do the same for the Brumby ( might borrow some of what you have done ) ...

Yep the peg board works a treat, although you might want to be able to lay it flat at times as it will get heavy as you lay out more wires ...

For the intermittent wiper - I'd just use the original relay ( if you still have it ) & wire it as per the manual.

The A/C system has three relays from memory - ( all located just above the coil on strut tower ) N.O. stands for 'normally open' relay - so when A/C switch is turned on in the cabin it turns on the system - triggered via those relays which also controls the cooling fans, condenser, etc. There's only two manual A/C switches : the On / Off switch , and the blower fan switch - both are in the center consul.

Keep at it ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Last edited by Bantum; Thu 3rd September 2015 at 11:12 PM.
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  #28  
Old Fri 4th September 2015, 05:48 PM
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Cheers Bantum Feel free to use anything you like. I plan to post up my whole car wiring diagram when it's done for anyone to use, if they are feeling adventurous I do have an original Mitsuba intermittent wiper relay for an MY, but it is wired up very strangely in the book, the washer bottle motor is connected to it too, maybe for wash+wipe function? I wasn't planning on using it just because it's not really compatible with my planned wipers system. My Brum doesn't have wash+wipe and the wagon never did either so I think I can live without it

I was aware of the 3 relays on the strut tower, I have them in my possession. There is also one other relay under the dash (blower relay on the above diagram) I just can't work out what the "Air conditioner switch" is in that diagram. Seems to have 2 internal contacts, a resistor and a diode inside. I can't work out if it is another relay or an actual switch. The resistor+diode combo is connected to the blower fan switch via thermostat and a dead end near the high and low pressure switches.
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  #29  
Old Sat 5th September 2015, 01:49 AM
Proton mouse Proton mouse is offline
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Having worked on and parted out several A/C systems I can say there is no other 'switch' you are looking for SB.
As far as I can make out by your pic (it comes up a bit pixelated when blown up) they are referring to the main one, of those 3 strut tower relays.
Some systems I've seen have 4 relays btw.
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  #30  
Old Sun 6th September 2015, 12:59 AM
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I think you're right Proton, dug out the A/C kit you sold me There is a relay with 6 pins, this must be the "A/C switch" in that diagram.

Today was more fiddling and fettling finishing off my wiring diagram before I go and try and get it printed out + laminated. Also got the fuse box from the NZ dash loom I have (now surplus to requirements) and hacked the fuse box off, removed all the fuse terminals to give me a blank canvas to work with as it were You can buy these crimp on fuse terminals that clip in perfectly to the stock fuse box so I plan to start fresh and re-purpose it for my own needs. Also steamed off the aging sticker from inside the lid, scanned it into PC and made my own version for that completely custom feel a few empty slots yet, will probably get used up.

Interesting to see how they bussed all the ACC, IGN and BATT circuits together originally! Just imagine all these thick wires getting their power through that 30 year old ignition switch! *shudder*

New fuse box label! Notice almost everything will have substantially lower rated fuses than before, because it's all driving relay coils and LEDs!
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