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Restorations and build ups. We will test this and see how it goes. A personal forum for members with major builds going on. This way we can keep all the posts together. If you have a major build going on let me know and I will set you up with your own area. If you have threads already running also let me know and I will then move them to your area. See the two I have added to get an idea of what I mean.

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  #101  
Old Fri 6th January 2017, 10:38 PM
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Yeah it is really annoying! I hate all of those "nickel and dime" parts that can stop a big project dead in its tracks. Seriously, try finding door jamb grommets/conduit online - I'm convinced it is a part that just does not exist and can not be bought aftermarket anywhere. Could your pump seal be custom made? Or is it a type of seal that could be found at places like CBC bearings etc.

Bantum, no pics of the guts of the clock conversion I'm afraid but I can tell you the PCB of the clock I used is about 5mm wider than original. Which meant I had to grind some plastic away around where the clock sits in the instrument cluster to clear the PCB. 2 little slots basically on either side. These aren't visible when it's re-assembled and there's no light bleed through from the little car image/HUD. Then there's a little bracket screwed in place in there to retain the PCB, and gratuitous use of hot melt glue
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  #102  
Old Sat 7th January 2017, 05:19 AM
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Arrow Box of grommets :

Here ya go :



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/125p...2-2139003c9fb4

Don't know if its got what you're looking for though ... :/

Used these on mine : ( also came in the door lock kit )



http://www.ebay.com/itm/AutoLoc-DLOO...-/112237323522

Cheers, Bantum ...

Last edited by Bantum; Sat 7th January 2017 at 06:17 AM.
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  #103  
Old Sat 7th January 2017, 08:37 AM
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I've tried my local bearing joint here. But since it's a 4 or 5mm shaft seal for a centrifugal pump seal they said they'd never seen anything like it and didn't have anything in stock or available in their parts book.

A pool shop might be able to help. I need to investigate this further. On other forums guys have not found a replacement item other than "replace pump", but at ~$130 for a second hand pump it could end up being just the same as what I've got already.

Bantum, those grommets look neat mate! Did you use that flexi hose on your subi? If so drop us a pic pls. It'd be good to see an after market job vs the factory look.

Sometimes in a build, it's all about compromise... Like this story Dad told me from his engine builder yesterday:

Two fellas were looking for an early Holden statesman like their old man had back in the day. Low and behold they found one - and it turned out to be their old man's one! BUT, it now had a 470-something big block fitted. They almost walked away before they found out they guy kept the original engine.

So they purchased the car and the original engine - which needed a rebuild. Enter dad's rebuilder into the picture.
These dudes wanted the car kept so original that when the builder told them they need a new cam shaft they couldn't get their heads around it. They argued that it MUST have the original cam shaft otherwise it wouldn't be the same as when their dad had it, nor would the car be original!

I'm pretty sure they got a new cam shaft. But that mentality is insane - a cam shaft?! Unless it's a stage two or three shaft no one would know without a dyno sheet!

Anyway, keep up the good work SB! If you find the seal I need let me know

Cheers

Bennie
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  #104  
Old Sat 7th January 2017, 09:12 AM
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Nice story, it's funny how uptight some people get about keeping originality If I was that builder I'd just slip the new shaft in on the sly and be done with it, they'd never know I'll keep an eye out for that seal eh

Bantum, it's funny, back when the wiring was still in it's planning stage I did just assume I'd be buying a pack of grommets like in your pic. When I actually got round to doing it though those grommets aren't quite right, yes they pop in the hole for wiring to safely pass through but they wouldn't/couldn't seal around the wires themselves because they don't have the "tail" on them. See pic below...
That corrugated tubing is also exactly what I had in mind - I couldn't find it anywhere other than US ebay for $30 something USD plus $25 shipping for a single piece

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  #105  
Old Mon 9th January 2017, 05:35 AM
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Posted this on another thread ages ago :



http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22647

Cheers, Bantum ....
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  #106  
Old Mon 9th January 2017, 09:38 PM
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That's exactly how I wanted mine to look, I wonder why I couldn't find the bits for it Makes me want to re-wire all the doors again now
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  #107  
Old Sat 14th January 2017, 08:57 AM
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Only real tricky bit is getting all the wires to fit through the tube ... :/
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  #108  
Old Sat 14th January 2017, 02:48 PM
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I've finally collected most of the bits for my sound system now Except the head unit which I don't really need yet.

The front speakers you've seen (JL audio C2's) The rear speakers are the same but 4"



The sub I've gone with is a Rockford Fosgate P3 8" shallow mount, with dual 4 ohm voice coils. This little thing is a sweet little unit. It's seriously small but should still punch out some nice bass. I never wanted bone rattling bass so this should be plenty. I'll be wiring up the dual coils for 2 ohms.



My favorite part is the amp - a Clarion XC2510 marine amp. I went with this one because like the sub it is amazingly compact but still has some great features and adjustable everything. It's 700w 5 channels
Specs:
50 Watts 4 + 200 Watts 1 Continuous @ 4-Ohms
75 Watts 4 + 300 Watts 1 Continuous @ 2-Ohms
150 Watts 2 Continuous @ 4-Ohms Bridged

Just have to work out what cable it needs to feed it. I will run a dedicated line from the battery (or alternator?) I haven't worked out the cable gauge required yet. It has 2 x 40 amp fuses on the parallel input lines so I guess the amp will be usually running around half that. If it ever pulls more than 80A the fuses will pop (which is good since my alt is only 90A )




The head unit will be a Sony XAV X100. I've spent many hours looking for a decent mechless, double din touch screen head unit with navigation and all the mod cons. There aren't many options and the ones that do generally have Apple car play only and not Android Auto. These programs connect to your smart phone and the head unit is almost useless without it. Since I hate crapple the ones with car play only were off the list. That left 3 options one of which is over 3 years old and buggy as hell (its French ) and the other has been "coming soon" for 12 months. That left the Sony which has car play and Android auto. Also has some nice features the cheaper ones didn't.



And here's a teaser of where the sub is actually going

Attached Images
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  #109  
Old Sun 15th January 2017, 08:55 AM
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That sub install will look tops mate. Going to make that whole panel look like one piece right across that side of the cargo space?

And when's the supercharger coming to help haul all this stez gear?

All that stereo talk about amps, watts, rms and bridging loses me. Especially the bridging stuff! Two reasons why I've not got into a sub and amp setup - first one is money and practicality - space and weight; the other is money to get all the gear to make a decent setup, it's never been a priority.

That said I would like a sweet little setup in the RS once it's on the road. I've got a mate that can help me out with it. He won several autonoise contests years ago.

Cheers

Bennie
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  #110  
Old Sun 15th January 2017, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Freddo View Post
That sub install will look tops mate. Going to make that whole panel look like one piece right across that side of the cargo space?

And when's the supercharger coming to help haul all this stez gear?

All that stereo talk about amps, watts, rms and bridging loses me. Especially the bridging stuff! Two reasons why I've not got into a sub and amp setup - first one is money and practicality - space and weight; the other is money to get all the gear to make a decent setup, it's never been a priority.

That said I would like a sweet little setup in the RS once it's on the road. I've got a mate that can help me out with it. He won several autonoise contests years ago.

Cheers

Bennie

Starting to think I'll need an SC with all this non-factory junk I'm loading her up with But I always wanted all the mod cons in this car And yes the plan is to make up a custom fitted (fiberglass) sub box for that little corner of the boot, blend it into the wheel tub nicely.

Before I started researching the audio gear I also had no clue when it came to what ohms, wattage, speakers etc etc. It's only with hours of reading now I've got some idea, enough to get by at least. I'm not going crazy with the audio stuff, just want something that sounds great because I value the music listening experience very highly With your RS I imagine it would be much easier, does it have speakers in the back doors? At least a starting point when it comes to fitting speakers. This wagon was never designed to have speakers in the rear doors so it makes fitting them a bit tricky. You don't have to spend huge $$$ either to have something that sounds decent. Alot of head units now have some pretty beefy output already so no need for an amp.
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