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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 07:12 PM
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L 5 speed to M.Y

I am going to have a go at fitting a 5 speed out of a l series into my M.Y. wagon. I have looked at a few threads on the subject , but there has been a few disagreements on the subject.
I have the gear box and the diff. I have checked the flywheel in my M.Y. and it is a 225 diameter . The clutch plate out of the L is the same size. Could they be combined to fix the input spline problem.

The clutch cable in the M.Y. seems to be way to short and the l series is way different. Any one have an answers for this.

And i have read that there is a difference to do with the starter as well.

Can any one help out . .

All info about the entire conversion will help a great deal as we will know how to do it in the future for other projects.

Thanks for any assist .

Rick
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Last edited by rtcb65; Tue 23rd September 2008 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 07:23 PM
Xtreme_RX Xtreme_RX is offline
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Use the 'L' series cable.
You need to modify the 'MY' pedal assembly to accept the 'L' series cable.
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtcb65 View Post
I am going to have a go at fitting a 5 speed out of a l series into my M.Y. wagon. I have looked at a few threads on the subject , but there has been a few disagreements on the subject.
I have the gear box and the diff. I have checked the flywheel in my M.Y. and it is a 225 diameter . The clutch plate out of the L is the same size. Could they be combined to fix the input spline problem.

Yes. You use the MY fly wheel, L clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. You do have to machine the fly wheel though as there is 1.5mm difference in height. The bit that gets machined is the part where the bolt holes are for the pressure plate to bolt to. You have to take out the locating dowels to do this.

The clutch cable in the M.Y. seems to be way to short and the l series is way different. Any one have an answers for this.

Yes, fit an L series pedal box or modify the MY one to look like the L.

And i have read that there is a difference to do with the starter as well.

I don't remember about the starter. The low range light switches differently to the MY and just requires a bit of mucking around with wires. Tailshaft is a different length.

Can any one help out . .

All info about the entire conversion will help a great deal as we will know how to do it in the future for other projects.

Thanks for any assist .

Rick
See replies in blue above. Hope that helps.
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 08:23 PM
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You need to space the starter motor away from the bellhousing [ a thick washer on each bolt usually works] otherwise the starter motor teeth won't re tracked far enough to miss the ringear when the motor is running. I hope thats not confusing
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 08:40 PM
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MY flywheel and Pressure Plate and Throw Out Bearing
Lseries Clutch Disk and Clutch Fork.
L series Cable mounted to MY Pedal (bolts on)
need to lengthen the throw on the pedal due to the difference in lengths of the Forks.

L series Talishaft making a mount for the centre bearing also.

slightly customised gearbox mounting.

electrics are slightly different.
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Matatak View Post
electrics are slightly different.
In the sense that the MY 4wd light switch is mounted off the lever in cabin, the L series is switched in the gearbox and has the wiring at the gearbox for 4wd and 4wd Lo. You'll have to sort out a way to get around this. Check out the Tech manual - I remember SuBaRiNo had some images that explained this...

Make sure the gearbox is from a carbie L - otherwise you'll have some fun with your CV shafts. The carbie L box is the same as the MY - 23 splines on the stub axle, the MPFI and MPFI turbo boxes from the L series use 25 splines like that on the Liberty... Make sense?

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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreme_RX View Post
Use the 'L' series cable.
You need to modify the 'MY' pedal assembly to accept the 'L' series cable.
No need to worry too much about modifying I used a cable tie, it's been holding strong for 2 years now. Always got a few spares in the car if it gave up for some reason.
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 10:10 PM
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Thanks to all that posted. It helps heaps. A few thing that have been posted cover items i knew nothing about. At least i wont get half way through the swap and and up with out a car , while trying to work out what has to be done to fix the problem. If any one knows of anything else that hasnt been covered , it will be most helpful.
Thanks to all.

Rick
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Old Tue 23rd September 2008, 10:56 PM
Pommiebrat Pommiebrat is offline
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Mate, I'm just in the process of doing this conversion myslef - I have th box in but haven't re-fitted the engine. Things I have found so far:

1. You will have to adapt the mounts from your old MY box in order to mount the L-series box. If you have alook you will see that lengtheneing the mounting holes on each bracket so they become slots allows them to fit. You will also have to make the holes in the gearbox cross-member into slots as well. Its a lot easier than it sounds and all bolts up fine.
2. There is a lump on the rear right top of the gearbox which has an M10 tapped hole in it. It does nothing but when the gearbox is mounted in the vehicle it knocks against the transmission tunnel. I cut mine off with a dremel multitool.
3. Tail shaft - the L-series box is much shorter than the MY one so the MY tailshaft is now too short. You can use the L-series one but it is 2-piece and has a central bearing which requires a custom bracket to be made to mount it to the vehicle. I got a propshaft made. The length you need is 149cm from the flange on that bolts to the rear diff to the face of the rubber oil seal on the gearbox output. This cost me 65 ($120) including posting and packin and I reckon is a lot easier than making a bracket.
4. You will need to adapt the gear-lever mount from the L-series to fit. The MY lever mounts into a ball-and socket joint within the gear box and uses this to gain its leverage. Becasue the L-series box is shorther this setup doesn't apply. You will need to use the L-series gear lever and its support bracket and then fabricate an extension to this in order to attach it to the vehicle. I used an old MY 4WD selector lever mount and adapted it it so that the support bracket for the gear lever attached to it and then drilled a hole just behing the opening for the gear lever in the transmission tunnel and mounted it using a rubber bush which was orignally designed for mounting an exhaust pipe (about $2 from a motor factors). I have yet to sort out the 4wd selector system but it will have to be custom made as I want to retain the lever from th MY. Top the gear lever off with a nice 8-ball pool ball from e-bay......its a standard 12mm thread.
5. Tediosuly the only box I could find was an MPFI one and as said previously in thsi thread I had to get differnet inner CV joints and mount them on my MY axles.

I would love to put some pictures on for you but I am working on my military computer and would probably end up in Guantanamo Bay or soemthing for some IT infringement. I willl try and get something on this weekend. Hope this helps.

John
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Old Tue 30th September 2008, 09:07 PM
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IF there is enough interest, i am thinking about doing a step by step with pictures on this thread. I noticed there is a written thread on the subject , but if some one is as thick as me , pictures help a lot. With the info given in the thread so far ( prior to this post ) it has helped out very much.
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