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Restorations and build ups. We will test this and see how it goes. A personal forum for members with major builds going on. This way we can keep all the posts together. If you have a major build going on let me know and I will set you up with your own area. If you have threads already running also let me know and I will then move them to your area. See the two I have added to get an idea of what I mean.

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Old Sun 25th January 2015, 06:46 PM
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Silverbullets' resto: Interior

Yes another part to my ever-lasting resto project This will be the final part of the resto, and one day these will all be in one place, instead of scattered about as they are now. This thread will be dedicated entirely to the interior section of the project, since I have some big plans and ideas of what I'm going to do with it, there needs to be a dedicated topic

I'm probably starting this a little early since I haven't even got the engine or running gear in properly yet but I'm doing it because I needed to do some interior work before I put the windscreen in, which is one of the next jobs coming up.

So the dash needs to be in before the windscreen, and before the dash can go in the heater/climate control box and ducting needs to be in. I started by taking the heater box apart and found one heater core which had been seeping for years with dry dusty coolant residue filling the bottom of the heater box. And all the shutters for the vents which should be covered in nice low density sealing foam, instead covered in remnants of the foam which fall apart soon as you look at them. Some work required! So I got a better looking heater core from U-pull it but on closer inspection it didn't look 100%. So I dropped them both off at a radiator joint and got one good one back, core flushed out and pipes cleaned, end tank re-soldered and new inlet/outlet pipes. Good as new! I also dropped my A/C evaporator off at the same place since there was fluorescent die and oil inside the A/C box. If it can't be fixed, the guy said he will be able to find a new one and adapt it all to work, nice!

I also bought some low density foam from Clark rubber to re-cover all the shutters. Putting the heater box back together and working out the mechanism for controlling the 4 shutters is a brain twisting puzzle alright, took me a long while to work it out and all I can say is I'm glad I took photos of it before taking it apart! Photos below of it going back together. All the cams and things got lubed up so it's nice and smooth now.

Inside the heater box:

Fixed heater core:

Heater core must be wrapped in foam before installing it:

Heater box assembled, what a head ache!
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Last edited by Silverbullet; Sat 8th August 2015 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Sun 25th January 2015, 06:50 PM
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Then when the heater box goes back in the defroster vents and ducts need to be installed as well before the dash can go in. I found my defroster outlets warped and cracked from 30+ years, and these ones get sunlight on them every now and then which doesn't help. After looking for better ones and finding them to be similar or worse than mine, repairing my old ones was the only option. Luckily with a heat gun it is possible to bend them back into useable shape.

After that was all sorted it was possible to put the dash in properly and connect the upper vent ducting and test it out just with a battery directly to the motor. All my flaps work properly with air coming out all the vents depending on the cable position, phew! No leaks by the looks of it. Not much air pressure though, probably from the 12 month old battery out of the shed! A/C box will be able to slot straight in when I get it back next week.

High tech method for testing air flow:


Next I got a bit carried away and decided to quickly mock up the center console position (using a touring wagon center console/radio box) and see how it's going to be possible to implement one of my plans, I think it should work out real nice, pics below And don't worry about the brown clashing with grey; all the brown parts are going to be re-colored or re-upholstered for a black and charcoal themed interior.

See if you can spot what is wrong with this picture

This one will give it away


That will probably be pretty much it for a while since I won't be doing much on the interior until some of the other major jobs are done. Wiring being the biggest headache of the moment. Don't want to use the old wiring and I don't think I'm up to re-wiring it myself. Talking to an auto elec's now about my options. A complete re-wire was on the cards until I found out it would probably cost more than the paint job! I need something done because of all the extra accessories I plan on having, don't think the old loom is up to supporting it all if I just tacked them onto it.
Now I'm pretty much prepared to put the windscreen in which was the end goal for fixing the heater box etc. All I need is to make sure all my chrome trims are good to go, get a new windscreen rubber and the car will be 90% weather tight
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Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

Last edited by Silverbullet; Sat 8th August 2015 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Wed 28th January 2015, 01:15 AM
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Question Query ...

Ah yes - I was going to do the same on my brumby ...

A couple of things I'm not sure about :

- Angle of screen, would make it difficult to see - as its pointing downwards + not enough depth behind to put in a full deck. You could use a screen that flips out on brackets, but would spoil the look ...

- The existing cable connections to the vent + hot / cold controls may not work in that location.
Converting to a full electric system may solve that ...

- Rust treatment - I'd re-coat all the rusty bits with some form of treatment, while you have access to it ...


Other wise I like the work so far ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Last edited by Bantum; Wed 28th January 2015 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Wed 28th January 2015, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantum View Post
- Angle of screen, would make it difficult to see - as its pointing downwards + not enough depth behind to put in a full deck.
You could use a screen that flips out on brackets, but would spoil the look ...
It will be a tablet PC, so no full depth deck to worry about. If the screen angle proves to be a problem I will probably make some sort of custom fascia to make it vertical.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantum View Post
- The existing cable connections to the vent + hot / cold controls may not work in that location.
Converting to a full electric system may solve that ...
Waay ahead of ya Full electric control it will be.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bantum View Post
- Rust treatment - I'd re-coat all the rusty bits with some form of treatment, while you have access to it ...
Do you mean interior wise or exterior? I've sprayed fish oil inside all the chassis rails and cavities, seam sealed the areas on the exterior that I've worked on previously. The interior, firewall area and floor will get a good covering of dynamat or something similar before the carpet goes in.

*Edit* Oh you mean the bracketry inside the dash/behind the instruments? Yeah it's very visible in those photos. It's very light surface rust only, from being in the shed, maybe I'll just spray with some rust converter if anything.
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Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

Last edited by Silverbullet; Wed 28th January 2015 at 06:15 PM.
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Old Wed 28th January 2015, 09:19 PM
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Question Folow up ...

Yeah sorry I was referring to the option of putting in a full sound deck, ( an existing one at that ) which unfortunately didn't suit my situation at the time. See here for details : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showpo...70&postcount=9

I'm reconsidering this though, with the advent of more suitable hardware becoming available. Bearing in mind that size of tablet pc didn't exist 10 years ago when I was first looking at this ...

In your application, what sort of PC tablet are you thinking of using ? as some tablets have the input /output, jacks etc. on the edges, which make it hard to fit ...



Add : Another thing I just noticed, the consul box is not sitting correctly up against the dash - making it an even tighter squeeze for the Screen. You will have to move the fan control panel lower to make it all fit, or get a smaller screen & put it in a surround ...

You will have to report back once its installed & operational to see how it goes ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Last edited by Bantum; Sat 8th August 2015 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Addies ...
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Old Sat 7th March 2015, 04:08 PM
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That print out is not 1:1 scale of an actual tablet, I couldn't get a picture if the one I wanted I'm thinking one of the Nexus tablets, 7" or 8". With the input/outputs being on the side/bottom is not so much of an issue, you can get right angle plug cables for these things to point the cables backwards behind the screen.

Here's a quick mock up of the 6 gauge cluster I did just to see how it looks/fits...it looks awesome A tight squeeze to get it in there though, something is pushing on it from behind so I can't get all the screw holes to line up. I think it's the vent ducting behind. Still much to do before I actually install it though.

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Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

Last edited by Silverbullet; Sat 8th August 2015 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Sat 7th March 2015, 06:05 PM
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Fuji HI did some funny things...

There I was fault finding my newly re-foamed heater box and ducting by putting the 2 wires from the fan directly to a battery and finding next to no air flow coming from the vents in any position; face, feet or defroster. Setting it to "hot" halved the flow. I found a few leaks; duct from fan to heater box not on properly, big resistor missing on the other side leaving a big hole, one upper air duct not on properly. I fixed these but still no flow About now I was dreading having to take the dash and heater box out again, pull it apart and re-do the sealing foam on the shutters.

Then I turned my attention to the fan itself, was it actually blowing? Taking the big main duct off and yep, plenty of pressure there. Red wire to positive, blue wire to negative, that must be right...right? Just to make sure I reversed the wires to the battery and bloody hell, could hardly hold my hand in front of the fan unit! Reconnected the ducting, put it on upper vents and nearly got blown out of the car!

I've heard of some strange things in the wiring for these cars but geez, did they really have to make the red wire earth and the blue wire power? More amazing is the fan actually moved any air at all in reverse, being an impeller type arrangement. Oh well, happy now I don't have to take it all out again
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-Custom paint job
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-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Old Sun 22nd March 2015, 01:54 PM
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I may as well start posting in this thread about the saga which is about to begin; wiring

A bad experience with auto elecs in the past weeks has basically forced me to do this bit myself. So today I've laid out the old front end wiring and plugged a few bits into it, got the new instrument cluster out and the wiring for that which has come from NZ to compare the two systems. And basically, absolutely nothing is even close to being similar between the two. It looks like whatever D/R 4WD wagon the NZ wiring came out of must have been optioned up to the gunnels because there are many more plugs at the fuse box area going to various sections of the car and many many more wires in the fuse box compared to my old setup, the NZ fuse box uses blade fuses (all different amperages to my old accessories) there are 2 silver can relays in the NZ loom behind the instruments which I have no idea what they're for yet, headlights perhaps? And I can't even find where the ignition barrel might have plugged in.

Anyway, compared to my povvo pack early model wiring there is no way I can join the two to make the dash work. All this was not entirely un-expected being the 6 gauge instruments and wiring are from a different country, probably years apart from my old dash.

So what is my best bet for sorting this out? Asking for advice here, to the few wiring gurus here on the forum. I like the idea of getting a huge peg board up on a wall somewhere and laying out new wires bit by bit, copying whats in the FSM but there's alot I don't understand like how the instrument panel dimmer switch can be connected to so many different circuits (and that's a minor issue!)

Am I thinking this is alot harder than it really is?

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Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

Last edited by Silverbullet; Sat 8th August 2015 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Sun 22nd March 2015, 03:38 PM
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Arrow Pegged out ...

Yep - There must be someone from here that is close enough to you that can come assist ? Your layout of all the bits is a start anyway ...

Peg board will do nicely, tag all the plugs with what they go to - strip the covering ( I'd keep it for re-wrapping later ) and find out where the wiring should go ... ( mud maps will help ). There will be some redundant stuff from the NZ dash that can be labelled & put to one side for later.

Now comes the hard bit - Integrating then dash to the rest, like said before - Make a start at one end ( like the fan ) & go through your list of bits to add / subtract, slow & steady will get you there - I'm sure you'll work it out ...

Cheers, Bantum ...
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Old Sat 8th August 2015, 03:54 PM
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Time for a little update to this thread...now noticing all my photos no longer work Pretty much every photo I've posted here in the last 12 months is now missing...which is weird because they are still in my bookface albums which is where I linked them from Currently re-uploading them to a different site and will go through and edit every post I can find which has photos missing now.

Anywhoo, I'm just starting to tackle the electrical system for this car after having bought an eariler Lib fuse box with built in relays and 10kg worth of electrical wire. Yes it's going to be a custom full re-wire job for a number of reasons discussed elsewhere, can't be bothered going that now. Basically I'm going to upgrade the system to a modern type system with the fuse box near the battery with relays galore. There will be a smaller sub-fuse box in the stock location which will only power the interior accessory circuits and maybe rear circuits like the tail lights. The Lib box has a few 45A fused outputs which will work nicely for this. I'm going with re-settable circuit breakers instead of fusible links for reliability.

Today I decided to work out the Liberty fuse box and what goes where. I was a little disappointed when I got home from the wreckers, pulled the rear/bottom cover off and didn't see what I was expecting; I was hoping there would be a socket directly under every fuse/relay terminal for individual wires, maybe with a common power bus or two to power the separate circuits. Instead there were about 4 big plugs with multiple wires coming out. I pulled the box apart and found it to be full of pressed copper connecting tracks going from the plugs to various different fuses and circuits. Easily mass produced and alot cheaper than individual wires and terminals me thinks.

Basically I have roughly mapped out what goes where on the top side (where the fuses go) and which wires they are connected to on the bottom side. It should still work out fine the way I have planned but I'm rather confused with how the headlight circuit relays in there work. There are 2 relays for the headlights (L/H and R/H) with their power side coming from the main battery feed to the fuse box (big chunky wire) but the output of their power side is a teeny little wire coming out of one of the plugs. Then their signal side is powered by a separate input into the fuse box (another big chunky wire) with the outputs both going through separate 15A fuses and then out to 1 teeny little wire on the same plug which I can only assume should go to the switch to put the signal to earth. Why on earth would the signal wire have 2 x 15A fuses on it??

The fuse box has 4 "A/C" relays in it which seemed to be an option because the 4 relay holder detaches from the main fuse box and has 2 of its own fuses. This section has the individual wires and connectors underneath like I wanted so it will be easy to use this relays however I want. There is also a couple of spare positions for a 30A and 45A cartridge type fuse, not sure how I will use these yet. I've made a mud map of what's what on paper but I think I will make a computer aided diagram to make it easier I''ll post that up when it's done.

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-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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